Blue Dress

This dress is based on the types of dresses found in the art of Nuremburg and surrounding areas in the mid- to late- 15th century.  Its most striking feature is the raised pleats along the front and back, and the grande-assiette style sleeves.  I have made two similar dresses, but finally created a pattern that fits me.
Here are some examples of this dress style in art:


Pair of Lovers, Gotha 1480-1485




 The Furlegerin with Hair Done Up, Albrecht Durer, 1497



Departure for the Hunt, detail, by the Master of the Housebook, date unknown.

You may have noticed the different sleeve styles, one style very full and long, one fitted and shorter, and one with openings along the back and shorter still.  There are also differences in the necklines.  However, the overall silhouette of the dresses is similar.

For my dress, I chose a middle weight linen in Sea Green, a light turquoise color.
My fitted pattern pieces:

 The front and back panels, which will be pleated.  They are longer than the skirt panels to allow for the pleating along the top:

 Back panel, mid-pleating.  I padded the top 4 inches or so with light-weight wool, and rolled the pleats.

These are the only pictures I have of the process.  I got so excited, I forgot to take pictures!

Here are pictures of the finished gown:

This dress is "waisted", meaning the bodice and the skirts are attached by the waist seam, as opposed to a kirtle-style gown with long continuous bodice and skirts.  This allowed me to line the bodice fully, including the sleeves.  The pleats are attached to the outside of the bodice, not set into a cut-out, and sewn as long panels into the skirts.  The front is closed with eyelet panels sewn into the inside front along the pleats, and hooks and eyes above them.  I found metal filigree buttons and made a silk fingerloop braid for the front tie.

I will be making another dress like this in purple wool over the winter.  When I make it, I'll be sure to document the entire process!